Casino Connection Nevada

Recipes for success

Star chefs share secrets to cooking as a career There is a certain artistry involved in preparing a beautifully fluffed soufflé or a tender Maine lobster. Perfecting a technique or mastering a cuisine is the result of skill, years of hard work and, perhaps most importantly, vision. But the creativity that has for so long driven the culinary industry must now come to a compromise with its polar opposite: business.

by Caitlin McGarry

It is no longer enough to be gifted in the kitchen. These days, the recipe for success is comprised of equal parts talent and masterful marketing, with a pinch of good luck to taste. Star chefs like Wolfgang Puck and Charlie Palmer have become household names not only because of their cooking chops, but also because of their ability to turn their skill into a brand.

The artist-as-entrepreneur model may spell trouble for those who prefer cooking to crafting business plans, but many in the industry claim this model isn’t going anywhere.

The Financial Factor

Culinary student Jeremy Jordan has seen the trend toward entrepreneurship throughout his experience in the industry, and he thinks more education is the key to setting himself apart. Jordan attended the Culinary Institute of America in New York where he earned a degree in culinary arts. He plans to continue his education at the University of Nevada-Las Vegas and obtain a bachelor’s degree in culinary arts management with an emphasis in beverage management.

“I’ve always wanted to get a bachelor’s, and my parents were big motivators in continuing to go to school,” Jordan said. “I feel just having a culinary arts degree… I want to go further than that. I want to have the knowledge to run a bigger industry.”

Jordan’s first foray into the world of culinary arts was as a bus boy at a neighborhood restaurant. His cousin secured a spot for him, and Jordan spent his hours clearing tables and taking drink orders. It wasn’t long before the chaos of the kitchen grabbed his attention—Jordan was so enamored of the world behind the scenes that he worked as an unpaid chef’s helper for 100 hours.

“I just fell in love with it—how fast-paced it was, how everything was perfected,” Jordan said.

He moved on to a fine dining establishment where meals were “like an art” and the menu changed biweekly. Upon graduating from high school, Jordan knew his next step would lead him into cooking as a career. He applied for and was awarded a scholarship from the Epicurean Charitable Foundation, which enabled him to pack his bags and head to Manhattan for a taste of East Coast cuisine.

ECF founder Rino Armeni encourages students like Jordan to be knowledgeable of both aspects of the industry.

“Today, finance and marketing are the most important things in our industry,” Armeni said. “Sure you have to know how to cook and how to clean kitchens, but at the end of the day, corporate world is different. Many years ago when I went into the business, the most important thing was going on the floor and shaking hands with your guests. Today, it’s different.”

Lending a Hand

Armeni began his own career while attending high school in Italy, where he grew up. During his sophomore year, school officials pulled Armeni aside and told him he couldn’t come back to school because he received low marks in Greek and Latin. Armeni had two choices: retake the tests and prove he was proficient in the required languages, or figure out an alternative.

He took a walk with his father one afternoon to discuss the decision that would alter his life forever.

“What do you really want to do?” his father asked.

 Armeni thought about his dreams, about where he imagined his life going, and replied, “I want to go around the world.”

 “Well, maybe there’s a way to do it,” his father suggested.

Soon Armeni was enrolled in a newly opened hotel school, and subsequently attended hotel college. He interned in cities all over Europe before graduating and moving to New York.

Armeni eventually landed in Las Vegas as vice president of food and beverage at Caesars Palace, and after living in the 24-hour city for a few years, Armeni decided he wanted to give young students the opportunity to experience the world. He founded the Epicurean Charitable Foundation as a way to provide scholarships to students whose parents cannot afford to send them to culinary school.

“When I came to Las Vegas, I saw so many people giving in this community and I felt that if they can do it, so can I,” Armeni said. “I just need to balance my time and make it happen. Obviously, children are our future, knowledge is power, and every time I see a kid without a proper education, they always seem to stand behind. Very rarely you have those cases where somebody who has no education makes it all the way to the top.”

Armeni’s dedication to education has enabled aspiring culinary artists like Jeremy Jordan to pursue a college degree in addition to the requisite work experience. Though hands-on practice is important in pursuing a career in the culinary field, many argue that higher education is equally necessary.

“I decided to go to school because it’s going to help me get a job easier,” Jordan said. “I want to know the basics and the technology that a school could teach you that restaurants really can’t. It’s two different learning styles.”

Investing in Options

While Jordan is hoping to expedite the process of moving up in the industry, chef Ricky Burse has taken a decidedly different approach.

Burse steadily worked his way through the kitchen ranks during his time with Boyd Gaming and is now an executive chef at the Eldorado Casino in Henderson. He is also the president of the Alliance of Black Culinarians, a group that, like the Epicurean Charitable Foundation, aims to help the financially challenged youth of Las Vegas succeed in school and enter the hospitality industry.

Burse himself began his culinary career uncertain of his long-term future in the field. He wanted to become a specialist in refrigeration and cooling systems, and so obtained a degree that he has never used—Burse was promoted from his position as a line cook and eventually landed a job as a sous chef at Sam’s Town.

He decided to supplement his practical experience with culinary classes at a local community college. It was there that he found the aspect of cooking that he enjoyed most: sharing his knowledge with others.

“I had a few instructors that I admired and (I thought) maybe this is what I want to do. I want to teach,” Burse said.

In his current role as an executive chef, Burse is able to train line cooks and essentially tutor aspiring chefs. Though Burse appreciates the aspects of learning and creating in his field, he acknowledges the trend toward business-minded culinary artists.

“You have to know your food costs; you have to know what you’re buying,” Burse said. “If you don’t know your retail end of it…then you’re going to be in trouble. That end of it is very important. You need to make sure that you get the right product at the right price. You don’t want to overspend or underspend.”

Occupational Safety

Times have certainly changed since food was more about trying experimental recipes in the kitchen with Grandma than creating a commodity. But for those who have been able to turn their passion into a career, the key is staying current with trends, techniques and tastes.

“You have to be flexible, you have to be willing to work a lot of long hours, because that’s what it takes,” said Ronnie Highsmith, vice president and assistant general manager of the Orleans Hotel and Casino. “You’re not going to learn the different areas by working eight hours a day. That won’t happen. You have to put a lot of time in, and you have to be willing to do that. You have to be happy with what you’re doing because it becomes just a job. If that’s all it is, you’re probably not going to be happy.”

Highsmith was promoted from kitchen steward to restaurant host to restaurant manager to beverage manager, and eventually became vice president of an entire property. His route is not uncommon in the hospitality industry, and though opportunity may seem limited in the faltering economic climate, Highsmith reiterated his foremost principle: flexibility.

 “Whenever you see the economy in the state that it’s in, there’s cause for concern,” Highsmith said. “That being said, there’s still growth in Las Vegas and there’s a lot of job opportunities out there. The key is being flexible.”

According to the National Restaurant Association, job growth in Nevada’s restaurant industry is expected to increase 25 percent by 2017, despite current economic woes.

Ricky Burse believes the longevity of the culinary field and the emphasis on education will push the industry through rough times.

“The culinary industry has grown a lot, it’s still growing, and there’s always room for improvement,” Burse said.

“There’s always room for another person to come in and show their creativity. The culinary art is an art that’s going to be around forever.”