There are many different styles of barbecue, all based on the locale to which they owe their heritage. Kansas City and Memphis styles are the most popular, but it doesn’t mean they’re the best. Thanks to Station Casinos, which recently brought the Salt Lick Bar-B-Q from Driftwood, Texas, to Las Vegas, Valley residents can now get a taste of Texas style barbecue.

The Salt Lick is a Texas institution when it comes to barbecue. It is one of the most popular restaurants in the state, so it is no small surprise that when Station Casinos went looking for the best barbecue to bring to the Red Rock Resort—and most recently Santa Fe Station—they decided to go with the Salt Lick.

Despite its casino home, everything in the Salt Lick screams, “Texas.” The décor is reminiscent of a Texas ranch, with cut stone walls and wood accents, exposed ceiling beams and a large, spacious seating area.

The menu is simple and printed on the placemats. While there are a few other menu items like smoked turkey and chicken, the best sellers are the barbecue staples of pork ribs, smoked sausage and the traditional Texas brisket. Even with such limited choices, making a decision can be difficult, because there isn’t anything on the menu that isn’t delicious. For those who can’t decide, Salt Lick offers a combination dish with brisket, sausage and ribs served with a side of coleslaw, potato salad and beans, which is also available in an all-you-can-eat style.

The Salt Lick at Santa Fe Station uses two very large smokers to slow cook everything they serve. The slow cooking process allows collagen in the connective tissues in the meats to break down, making the meat moist and flavorful. Once noticeable difference at Salt Lick is that the food is smoked using oak, instead of the more aromatic hickory or mesquite. Brian Baldwin, the assistant executive chef for Santa Fe Station, said the reason they use oak is simple: it imparts a smoky flavor that doesn’t overwhelm the taste of the meat. With the brisket needing 16 hours in the smoker, it would taste entirely like burned wood if hickory or mesquite were used.

The choice of sauce at the Salt Lick also differs from traditional… or at least what most people assume is traditional. Throw out notions of some red, gooey, KC Masterpiece style sauce because Salt Lick uses a mustard-based sauce. Not only does this mean it won’t burn while cooking, it is also a less powerful sauce that doesn’t overpower the delicate taste of the smoked meat. It’s a perfect combination, albeit one that, on site alone, could put a few people off.

There are plenty of side dishes and appetizers—onion rings, wedge fries, macaroni and cheese—and all are equally tasty. Considering the sizable portions of the entrées, it may be advisable to share any side dishes.

The real treat at Salt Lick—like most barbecue restaurants—is the meat. It’s nothing overly complicated or sophisticated, either in preparation or presentation, but there is a beauty in the simplicity of Salt Lick. The barbecue may be Texas style, but the Santa Fe Station incarnation of the Salt Lick is mostly old Vegas with its focus on quality food, good prices and excellent customer service.

Salt Lick Bar-B-Q
Santa Fe Station
4949 N. Rancho Dr.
(702) 658-4900

Hours
Mon.—Thurs 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Fri.—Sat. 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Sun. 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

By Greg Jones

Greg Jones is managing editor of Casino Connection Nevada, as well as associate editor of Global Gaming Business magazine.

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