At twilight, the neon glow of the Las Vegas Strip is backlit by orange skies and slate blue mountains—the quintessential contrast of a sparkling metropolis amidst the harsh wonder of the desert. The bustle of tourists and traffic makes it difficult to stop and take a look around, but Panevino Ristorante & Gourmet Deli is an oasis from which to admire the beauty of Sin City.

One of Las Vegas’s newest Italian restaurants, Panevino has quickly amassed a following, and word of mouth has spread—due as much to the view as the fine dining experience. The restaurant is located just south of McCarran Airport, and a wall of floor-to-ceiling glass faces the Strip, so patrons can stare at the city lights and watch airplanes soar into the sky over dinner and drinks.

Panevino may take its culinary inspiration from Tuscany, but the restaurant got its start in San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter. The Las Vegas incarnation expanded upon its picturesque predecessor with a prime desert location and the addition of a deli to serve the more casual diner.

Half Old World Italy with wood and brick design elements and half space age architecture with lamps curling down from above, Panevino has a distinct character in both appearance and food.

The charming eatery offers both lunch and dinner menus, but the building truly comes alive at night, when the place takes on an air of romanticism with dim lighting and cracking fireplace. After being seated, servers bring baskets of bread with oil and vinegar in typical Italian fashion. The soup, salad and appetizer offerings are numerous, and it’s tempting to order one of each, but a five-course meal isn’t possible with portions this size. It’s best to focus on choosing one of the many available entrees.

There are rich pizza offerings, including the Rustica, topped with fresh mozzarella, parma prosciutto and arugula drizzled with truffle oil. Then there is the pasta, which is beyond anything Olive Garden has to offer. Panevino serves up three different kinds of ravioli (the four-cheese variety with tomato-vodka sauce and sausage is perfection), as well as traditional linguine, penne and gnocchi.

The seafood and meat selections incorporate a range of ingredients that elevate the meal’s base to a high art. Steak, lamb, chicken, lobster, salmon—you name it, and Panevino serves it with style.

Of course, a fine dining experience wouldn’t be complete without a well-rounded drink menu. Panevino has a superior wine list, as well as a mix of cocktails that includes the delicious tiramisu martini (rum, dark chocolate, coffee liqueur and half and half).

For patrons who prefer simple lunches to decadent dinners, Panevino has an adjoining gourmet deli that offers 18 kinds of specialty sandwiches, all under $10. There are also a plethora of salads to choose from, as well as a selection of hot food items. The prices run well below those of the main restaurant (which can be a little pricy, but the quality is worth it).

As for those value-minded diners who prefer a great special to an expensive slice of veal, Panevino is also the host of Martini Tuesdays and La Dolce Vita Night every Friday, with enough drink specials and live music to keep you entertained all evening. So request a seat near the window and enjoy the view. The experience is more Nevada than Naples, but it’s still a sight to be seen.

Panevino

246 Via Antonio Avenue (at Sunset Road in Marnell Corporate Center)

Hours:

Sunday-Thursday

5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Friday-Saturday

5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

702–222–2400

By Caitlin McGarry

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