The Draft House is home away from home for people from Wisconsin, but it is also an opportunity for those not fortunate enough to hail from Packerland to embrace the cholesterol-laden and booze-battered lifestyle for which the state is known.

The outside of the building is styled after a typical Wisconsin dairy barn, while the bar and main dining area has a rustic, Northern lodge kind of feel. There is also a more family-friendly dining area tucked into the back of the Draft House. It’s brighter, has more booth seating and is smoke-free. Because of its unrestricted gaming license, smoking is permitted in the other dining areas surrounding the bar, but again, that’s part of the Wisconsin lifestyle: beer, brats and cigarettes.

Because beer is one of the food groups in Wisconsin, it is an important component of any restaurant review. In this category, the Draft House doesn’t disappoint. There are eight regularly available styles ranging from a light American pilsner style to wheat beer, stout, red ale and the high-octane Dirty Dog IPA (imperial pale ale). There are also a number of brewmaster specials that vary with the season. Of course, all the major labels are available in bottles, and there is a full selection of spirits behind the bar.

While the handcrafted beers are certainly a nice touch, the Wisconsin experience wouldn’t be complete without something being either fried or smothered in cheese. In this category, the appetizers exceed all expectations. The potato skins add the glory of bacon and sour cream to the cheese-covered goodness ,while the cheese curds combine the power of cheese with the joys of deep fat frying (take a cheese curd, soak it in beer batter, deep fry it and cover with more cheese). The chicken wings are larger than those available at most places, and constitute a meal by themselves. Likewise, the nachos are as much a meal for two or even three as they are an appetizer.

Those who for some strange reason are looking for more health-conscious fare are still in luck, with the Draft House serving up a highly recommended artichoke dip. Along those same lines, there are a number of salads and a pesto chicken wrap on the menu, but that is more California cuisine than a true artery-clogging Midwestern meal.

For that you have to try something like the meatloaf sandwich, the pot roast melt or some of the more unique brat creations. For those unfamiliar, brat is not an annoying child, but the food of the gods. Delicious in its own right, the folks at the Draft House have taken this sausage to new heights by putting them on top of chicken and steak sandwiches, burgers, or even putting a Klement’s and a Johnsonville on the same bun and topping it with bleu cheese. Best yet, the Draft House uses bonafide brat buns as the delivery vessel, and brat buns are not easy to find west of the Mississippi.

For the even heartier appetite there are a number of entrees (served with soup or salad and choice of two sides) available from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Entrée items range from walleye (pan fried or broiled) and pot roast to pot pie and lamb chops. There are also a number of steak and chicken dishes, as well meatloaf and a chicken and ribs barbecue platter.

The Draft House also offers a number pizzas, including a vegetarian pie with artichoke, zucchini, bell peppers and roma tomatoes, and the Big Ten, with salami, Italian sausage, pepperoni, mortadella, olives, onions, sweet peppers, garlic and mozzarella and Fontana cheeses.

There are a number of televisions spread throughout, and there always is some kind of sporting event on. The Draft House throws parties throughout the college football bowl season and also during the college basketball tournament.

A word to the wise: unless you’re a fan of the Green Bay Packers, you’ll want to stay away on game day. The Draft House has been a Packer bar for 21 years, and people are known to get there hours before kickoff just to get a good seat.

It is also where a number of people congregate to watch University of Wisconsin athletics (mainly football, basketball and hockey), although the Badger backers don’t come in the same numbers as Packer fans so it doesn’t turn into as big of a mess. The athletics are only a draw for a couple of hours each week; the rest of the time the draw is the Midwestern take on comfort food and the handcrafted beers.

4543 N. Rancho Dr.

Hours: 24/7

702-368-3715

By Greg Jones

Greg Jones is managing editor of Casino Connection Nevada, as well as associate editor of Global Gaming Business magazine.